In the heart of the West Bank, winemaker Sari Khoury of Philokalia Wines faces unprecedented challenges. His 100-year-old vineyard, positioned against the border wall of an Israeli settlement, is under constant surveillance by a military watchtower. Despite the geopolitical turmoil and ongoing conflict, Khoury remains committed to producing quality wine in Palestine, driven by a love for his land and its potential for excellence.
The Current Landscape: Winemaking Amid Conflict
The West Bank is home to about a dozen winemakers, including Khoury, who work under strenuous circumstances. The region is about 45 miles from Gaza, a zone fraught with war since the October 7, 2023 Hamas-led attack on Israel, which resulted in significant casualties on both sides. The United Nations reports a staggering toll of over 34,735 Palestinian fatalities.
In the wake of conflict, vineyards were in mid-harvest, and many harvest workers were conscripted, leaving grapes to perish on the vines. Khoury, however, managed to complete his 2023 grape harvest by sheer luck, choosing October 6 to pick grapes in celebration of his father's birthday, just a day before the deadly assault began.
The Importance of Terroir
For Khoury, the pursuit of winemaking starts with terroir—a term encompassing the soil, climate, and topography that give wine its distinct character. His vineyard, at 3,000 feet above sea level, benefits from the Mediterranean Sea to the west and the Dead Sea to the east. This unique location offers a significant diurnal temperature shift, essential for developing complex wine flavors. The soil, a mix of clay and limestone, and Khoury's dry-farming practices contribute to the vineyard’s unique terroir.
These vines, some over 110 years old, have been resilient through adversity. Despite being repeatedly crushed by boulders for settlement construction, they have survived and thrived, enabling Khoury to produce his first vintage in 2015.
Notable Wines from Philokalia
Khoury’s small-scale production of 10,000 bottles includes the 2022 Stubborn Saints, a pale ruby-colored chillable red with notes of wild strawberries, roses, candy, and herbs, offering an elegant summer drinking experience. Another flagship wine, the 2021 Grapes of Wrath, is an amber wine made from indigenous grapes aged in amphorae with flavors of honey, orange pith, and dried apricot. It’s known for its long finish and balanced structure.
Additionally, the 2021 Anima Syriana, a bold red wine with a velvety mouthfeel and notes of blackberries and cherries, rounds out the Philokalia Wines portfolio. The wines truly capture the essence and history of Palestinian terroir.
Market Dynamics: Demand Amidst Conflict
Despite a significant drop in local wine consumption due to the war, there's a rising curiosity and demand for Middle Eastern wines in the U.S. Notable restaurants like Galit in Chicago and Albi in Washington D.C. feature Philokalia Wines on their prestigious lists. This increased interest represents a surge of solidarity and appreciation for the unique qualities of these wines, transcending the region's troubled conditions.
A Vision for the Future
Khoury remains hopeful amidst uncertainty. His future plans involve seeking out opportunities to nurture his vines and produce exceptional wines, even as he faces potential military action and logistical challenges. He believes in the long-term potential of Palestinian wines and is dedicated to overcoming each hurdle, one day at a time.
In the end, Khoury's commitment to his craft is a testament to the indomitable human spirit. His story and his wines symbolize resilience, hope, and beauty found even in the most challenging circumstances.
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